I had started this costume in early May but didn't get any real sewing time on it until after school was out. Then we had 8 glorious weeks off and I really started to sew. And lie in the sun and take one small trip to Disneyland. I did not take a lot of pictures of the process.
I did want to share that I used American Duchesses "hacks" of the Simplicity pattern she had created of the Outlander ensemble. They can be found here.
I followed the pattern instructions and did a complete lining of the bodice. I also put the boning in the back and in the front edges. The back I also redrafted to have shoulder seams and curved fitted pieces more like actual 18th Century work.
Most of the sewing was done on a sewing machine. However, I wanted the outer dress to have more of a hand-stitched look. I attached the pleated skirt by hand and gathered and applied all the self trim by hand. It takes time but gives a little more authentic flair.
Originally I was going with the cuffed look with engageantes underneath. But as I began my husbands costume I realized that the cuffed look was a bit earlier in time than his fancy duds. I decided to make self-trimmed cuffs with lace underneath.
The cutting picture shows the chalked outline of the ruffled cuffs. These are cut out with pinking shears and not hemmed at all. I hand stitched both the green cuffs and the lace to the sleeves by hand. I can then remove them and make the costume wearable for a different look and time period in the future.
The original stays I made for under this costume had to be made again, only with a longer waist. By adding and inch I was able to have the stays give the right cleavage at the top and support the skirts and petticoat. I made them out of white dupioni silk.
I was very happy with how the costume came out, in the end. It was fun to wear and to see and be seen at the Costume College Gala Ball. But you will have to wait for another post for the final results!
Blessings,
Jeannine
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